Bike Maintenance
Chain.... questions / help
Broke my chain twice this week ridding at Comite.
The pins are shearing off on both sides leaving a small piece in the middle.
I oil my chain every time before I ride, got a quart of 10w40 put on a good coat before I head out. Most of the time after ridding, I blow off the dirt and mud at the bike wash area. When dirt and crime builds up, I take off with the quick link drop in a jar with Dawn and water shake and let set overnight, then blow off and re-oil.
This is my first chain to break and to break twice in a week! a few riders at Comite told me I should get 1,000 to 2,000 miles out of a cheep chain.
Went to Capital, told them I needed a decent 8 speed MTB chain. They suggest SRAM pc-850 should have asked more questions when I picked it up, but they had their hands full on a bike, so I left them alone to work. The SRAM has small bevels on the links, and the larger outer links seam to be bulged out just ever so slightly. The TAYA chain did not have this. see attached pic.
Old Chain Brand TAYA
Front chain rings FSA
Rear cassette Sram
All parts 4 months old.. chain, chain rings, and cassette.
Mileage EST 450-500
On the Service Instructions that came with the SRAM, has abbreviations, (HG/HG-I/IG/PG/EXA-Drive)derailleur compatibility. My derailleurs are Shimano LX and 4 months old.
Questions
Gears on the SCRAM cassette and FSA chain rings compatible?
start out with the wrong chain?
was the chain a real cheap chain?
normal mileage / time for a chain to be replaced?
derailleur compatibility?
do I need to replace my cassette and chain ring? or can I get some more use before need to replace them?
I know this is a lot of questions on something as simple as a (Bike Chain)questions is part of what the forums for. Still consider myself a beginner rider. Nice to have a place to get good advice and suggestions from experienced riders.
Trying get my bike ready for the group ride.
Thanks
Larry
"I may be last... but I was there."
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Been riding at Comite in the mornings and doing a good bit of night riding.
Been finding myself moving more forward on the seat the father riding or the more laps.
Moved the seat forward about 1 1/2 inches and raised the height almost 2 inches. This seams to have helped a great deal.
Talking with Lynn on the Beginner group ride with Derrek about tire air pressure. Can have to much.
Dropped from 50 lb. to 40 lb. this also seamed to help.
Better traction and the tire roles over the thousand roots rather than bounce over.
Going to do some more playing around with the seat.
Before having the seat so far back could not raise to a proper height. Moving forward also gave a little more weight on the front tire. The shift of forward weight seams to keep the front tire from washing out as easy on the wet stuff. could be a comb of air press and forward weight helping on front wheel traction.
Larry
"I may have been last, but I was there"
Larry, your experience is growing every week!
Actually, I like lower my seat about 1/2" for comite, helps to take the sharp turns faster. But maybe you were way low to being with.
There are very few scenarios where more than 40 psi should ever be used in a mtb tire. Comite, clear springs, and the beast surely dont qualify as one of them.
Larry, I've got a DVD for you, it is an absolutely terrific instructional video on bike handling. It's called Fluidride Like A Pro. It's sitting on the bench on my front porch, if you're in the area. Otherwise we might get together on Saturday for a Comite preride and I'll loan it to you.
Moving the seat forward is good, as is weighting your front tire and "looking into" corners. You and Derrek were doing great. Yep 40psi is a good safe pressure. Try 35psi in your front tire.
Some guys have asked me, "I have a cool bike, now what?" Well besides riding and smiling, here are a few things that might help you spend your Xmas cash.
But first, I must say, there are getting to be fewer people out there that are faster on the trails than me these days. Of all of them I can speak for, let me just say, don't buy fresh gear merely trying to impress. We'll think less of you once we find out you aren't as fast as you look :-) However if it makes you feel more comfortable on the bike, and you've earned it from riding hard, it's worth it. OK then let's proceed.
1. Clipless pedals. I know they make beginners nervous, but it's probably the #1 upgrade that can actually improve your performance. Time ATACs are low maintenance and last forever.
2. Clipless shoes with cleats. Can't have one without the other. SIDI and Shimano make some great shoes. You need an exact fit for shoes, and most are listed in European sizes that vary in variance, so try them on or order with a good return policy. You don't have to get the most expensive ones, SIDI Blaze is a good shoe at a moderate cost. You can get some models that look like low-cut hiking boots. They are not as stiff, for better or worse.
3. Padded shorts, tights, jersey, long-sleeve jersey. In Winter you need long pants and sleeves that won't catch on the chainring. If you're too heavy to feel comfortable in tights, wear shorts over them. You don't have to go for the skin-tight look. Freeride/motocross-style jerseys are loose-fitting too and come in long-sleeve versions. You will come to appreciate padded shorts if you've never ridden in them.
4. Stan's Tubeless. There is probably not a single Category 1 or pro racer that doesn't use tubless. Once you've ridden for a while, prepare yourself for the realization that higher PSI makes you SLOWER offroad, not faster. Also, the tire you're using can be made to perform much better at a low pressure. Finally, you lose weight where it's most important: at the wheels, and you don't have to worry about popping tires anymore. What's not to love? This is a great instructional video on how to convert a wheel to tubeless. You also need an air compressor or CO2 inflator to mount a new tire tubelessly.
5. Full-finger gloves. Warm in winter and the best grip in summer. If you get too close to a tree, you'll bang your knuckles. If you eat it, you'll grab something abrasive. Full-finger gloves in the perfect size for you will give you more confidence and control. FOX gloves are a good choice.
Any advice on that? Somehow those people up north do road rides in below freezing weather. I have no idea how because the low 60s becomes bothersome for me. I've been buying some long sleeve winter athletic stuff as I find them on sale, and hopefully have enough now to be properly equipped.
I start off and the wind is stinging, try to keep going but just cant get warmed up, so I turn around and put on something warmer. Take off again, after a couple miles start to get hot and have to take off. By the time I put the warm stuff in the house and come out I'm starting to get cold again!!! The best thing I've figured out is ride a short 2 mile route around the house until i'm hot, then shove the thing in the mailbox and keep going.
I bought a couple of those tight stretchy base layers. They keep warm, but not too warm, under a jersey, but not very comfortable. I usually wear a size M, but I got a XL in those and it still feels too tight.
I tried a breathable windbreaker + base layer, that gets hot real quick, will try again when colder.
Any other tips?
See the thread on the loco forum:
http://www.locomtb.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2163
I've not tried removable arm warmers but that's a potential solution. It was 42 this morning; I've been out on several days when it was 28, 29 degrees. That's not exactly ice roadie weather but let's see them soak up the humid summer nast down here with glee like a lizard.
I have two long sleeve jerseys, one is very light and the other is thicker but form-fitting like spandex. The thicker one will have me sweating in temps below freezing within 20 minutes. Those first two miles are always a test, after that it's on.
This morning I took the thin jersey and put a sleeveless jersey over it, and that was perfect. I always wear tights on my legs. I wear an bandanna on my head, pulling it over my ears when it gets down in the low 30s.
Sometimes I've found it's hard to keep my feet warm, but I realized that too tight a fit on shoes and socks will make it worse.
I like the bandana idea! Will have to try that. I used to have some arm warmers but I lost them, they did work really well. Nowadays I'm too cheap to pay $25+ for only sleeves (I tried cutting finger holes in dress socks but they are itchy and dont stay up).
So a thin jersey at 42F? yikes. I tried a thin jersey after getting warmed up yesterday, and it was too cold, especially on arms, at 58F. My thicker jersey seemed to work, but its itchy without a base layer, and that made it a little hot. hmmm, maybe I should try again with a jersey instead of base layer. I woke up to ride this morning, but rain moved in early.
I did a lot of mileage last January, but I remember it being a flip/flopping hatred - after a week of riding I would get fed up and say I'm only doing spin classes from now on, after a week of spin classes I was fed up and only wanted to ride. Going from hot room to cold outside might have made it worse. But by feb I was riding really strong, then my frame broke, then my fork broke, then my other frame cracked, then I gave up and didnt train again until summer.
I spent most of december last year in below freezing climate, that probably helped, especially running in it (although really steep hills and snow make a scary combination). Get back home and 40F feels mild. Should get a good dose of that again on my trip.
After spending a bit of time in temps below 20F, last night it was 32 and I felt quite comfortable without any special winter clothing. So a road ride at 50F shouldn't be much of a bother.
Been crazy around here, busy busy one problem after another.
Almost died 2 weeks ago. For Real no joking around. Really screwed with my head for a bit, took me a bit to get it all back together. I am ok now, got my marbles back. 13 years working BR Harbor and 5 years being a Capt. running Longshoremen to ships Sunshine Bridge, I should know how quick it can happen. Seen it... heard the stories..., can't happen to me. Got too conferable. Fell off the dock, straight down, water felt like concrete when I hit. Down down down deep, thought I would go all the way to the bottom. When I finally got back up I was in the worst possible spot one would ever want to be, in between the dock pilings and a barge. Thought I get crushed like a beer can. Busted my arm falling through the grating, grating shredded paints ripped the VHF out my paints pocket. Was able to grab the last run of a ladder with only four fingers. No life jacket, no radio, no one even knew I was on the dock. Not to proud to say I was crying for help like a little School Girl, or some one that was busted up holding on with four fingers in the Mississippi River without a PFD. I can't go out like this! I was on my own, up to me alone if I was going to get out of this. What should have killed me during the fall actually saved me. Some submerged logs jammed under the dock give me just enough lift to get a foothold on the rub rail to grab a barge cavil and pull myself up. Don't know how long I was holding on that last ladder run trying to do a one arm pull up. But had time to think about how my Dad, Mom, Sister, Niece, Daniel, Friends and who would take my Dogs for walks and car rides........it took me over 2 hours to stop shaking after I got out. When got to my Men, did not have to say a single word, they had seen it before, and took good care of me.
Next day I scheduled my vacation.
Arms doing better swelling around elbow gone down, bruise almost gone.
Larry
"I may have been last, but I was there"
We are so glad you are OK. Had to gather everyone around the computer screen to read your story.
You never cease to amaze, Larry. It's an honor to have our club composed of tough guys like you and others. I'm sure you didn't intend to have the incident but you made it through it. Hope to see you some time soon.
I need a bike frame upgrade Bad. My frame to small and heavy.
Money very tight for me. Pay check to pay check.
Came up with a little money like get the best bang for my dollar.
I do most XC ridding, no jumps or drops. Something handle BRAMBA trails, the "Beast", and Clear Springs that kind of ridding. like one get me up hills, climbs, and take the drops of the Beast.
FS frame... light, and good pedal efficient. I am 6 foot tall and have 32-33 inseam.
Budget $1,000 to $2,000 max, that all I got.
Like spend $1,000 on frame and $500 on fork upgrade use the rest for clipless pedals, shoes, etc.
But would spend all on good frame and use curent fork (Dart 3) if I had to. Can use my components off my curent bike they decent entry level work good no problems or complaints.
But most important is the frame, it just to small.
Any suggestion help info pics links.
I really need help with this. soo many choose from. been looking e-bay and web. I don't have a lot of experience to make a quick choice. doing research.
Is the Ellsworth Truth as good as they say, the Best. Or there others cheaper but as good.
Check out these two items.
http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-Ellsworth-Truth-Frame-20-Large_W0QQitemZ16...
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ELLSWORTH-TRUTH-FRAME-MTB-XC-SMOKE-OR-GREEN-LARG...
Thanks for the help.
Larry
"I may have been last, but I was there"
I've got an Ellsworth Truth large frame.
The large was a bit tight for me on size, but I ride a 59cm road bike, and have a 34 inseam (6'3"). Should be perfect for you.
It's slightly used, but I'll sell it as a XT complete bike for $1250.
check out my craigslist posting - Baton Rouge // bicycles
Larry:
I hate to throw a monkey wrench into deliberations but I want you to get the best bike for you. Ever thought of a 29er? As I remember it you're pretty tall, about 6 feet? The thing you'll appreciate about a 29er is the stability, it feels very much in control on big descents. A 29er also rolls up and over little bumps in climbs that throw you off and make you stop with a 26" bike.
Within your budget, a 29er hardtail would easily fit. The best deal on a truly full-suspension 29er is the Voodoo Canzo, check it out ($799-$850 for the frame) I think this would be an awesome bike for you:
http://www.treefortbikes.com/338_333222338360__Canzo-29er-Frame.html
http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-1429-voodoo-canzo-2008-29-frame.aspx
Larry:
I had the same problem for a while, actually I broke my chain last week. Chain breaks are usually due to something else wrong with the drivetrain, the derailleur being out of adjustment, bad cabling, a worn cassette... something that causes the chain to have more stress than usual.
Motor oil is an inexpensive lubricant, but it's attracting grime to all your drivetrain components. Try this, in a spray bottle it's very easy to use:
http://jensonusa.com/store/product/CM308C00-Progold+Prolink+Chain+Lube.aspx